www.solbeam.com

I'm back from the Himalayas and scouting the nearest wireless internet cafe in Delhi from which I can upload my similarly towering piles of photos.

Putting my students on a plane and posting here are my most immediate tasks; stay tuned.

Handing me back the piece of paper with the single word on it, my student says,

"Um. I'm not sure I know what this is…"

Part of the mission of my work (in experiential education) is that of fostering eleven (what we call) "core values" in our students. It's a tricky agenda because there are no simple equations or lists of instructions with which you can assist students in the tasks of realizing such intangible concepts as, "interconnectedness", "authenticity" and "compassion."

In fact, giving the word itself away too directly could even prove itself quite detrimental as it is in the nature of any teenager (or for that matter, inquisitive individual) to be suspicious of anything offered too freely. We also have to be careful of words over-quoted and sometimes, these days, even mass-marketed; any word that has made the tagline of coca-cola has most likely lost everything but its jingle.

So much like the popular party word game Taboo, it is our objective to have the students struggle not only with the answer (that we don't name), but also the equation. And yes, they hate this game at first; especially because we don't even tell them we're playing it. (I'm realizing as I'm typing that this is likely to add a lot of fire to students' friendly fire accusations that the leader team is, "secretly strategic.") In any case, now that we are two months into our semester of intensive experiential lessons, we have seen our group, as individuals and a whole, give us easy evidence proving that they are now quite experienced with (even if they cannot name or define) all eleven of our core values. We're confident that they have harvested all the raw vegetables necessary to put this recipe together.

Back to the student holding the word and prompt with which I started this post. And let me add the disclaimer that it is quite ironical that the student in our group who embraces and exemplifies the quality most doesn't know that her most natural inclination is the very definition of the word in her hand (adding the final mark of purity to her quality).

Yet I am not going to fault her English teacher or general education for this vocabulary mishap. In fact, I'm going to enter some very dangerous territory and suggest that the responsibility might lie on the broad shoulders of American culture and society. But before anyone calls me a separatist or unpatriotic, please hear me out as I make the case by serving it in compliment-sandwich (a sneaky way to pass to some tough meat). For just as we (group leaders) encourage constructive criticism in our group, I think, as a country, we should also be taking some time to gently and compassionately give and receive the feedback that will evolve us to our highest nation.

With our students, after having them work to discover and define the words, we then asked them to each choose the "core value" that they, deep inside, intuitively know as the next most appropriate step in their personal development.

Now I'm clearly going to take some liberties here and choose a word for the United States of America, of which, if it matters, I am a citizen. And I hope to make the case a little more edible by emphasizing that the States does embrace many of our core values exceptionally well. As a country, we have proven ourselves quite skilled in the categories of, "courage," "responsibility," "ownership," and "curiosity." And then there are some classes in which we understand the term or goal even if we're still sorting out which verbs we actually have to put into action to complete the realization of the lesson. But I'm looking for the word that we, deep inside, intuitively know as the next most appropriate step in our country's personal development.

And the word I choose is Humility.

Now just as my student didn't know the meaning of this word, I think this term is so far from the mind of American culture that we can barely conceive of a sentence to put it in. But let's reach for a minute.

(And I know I'm predictable, but...)

Let's reach across the world to my personal and favorite teacher and Guru-ji of all.

India.

For while India has her own set of core values that are in particular need of development (perhaps actually, even the same that we in the West have mastered), the quality that I have witnessed her culture, society and people to embrace with eloquence and grace, on both conscious and subliminal levels, from sunrise to sunset and from child to great grand parent, is that of Humility.

Modeling by example, let's work on the definition first.

And instead of words, like a good experiential educator, I am going to use that which I've actually witnessed.

I am quite fortunate to be living between six sacred temples near Tulsi Ghat in Varanasi. The sacred pool outside my door is called, Lolark Kund and beside it is a temple dedicated to the planets with which our own is in orbit around the sun. So I need not step father than my doorstep to watch the following: a family approaching the temple, the father kneeling down and touching his forehead to the front step of the entrance, the youngest daughter delicately holding a string of fresh flowers between her hands clasped in the "namaste" of respect, the mother covering her head out of modestly (to the gods) and gently lowering her 4-year old toddler grandson from her hip so that he too can touch his head to the ground.

The family enters and proceeds in their circumambulation of the inside of the temple. They approach the statue of Ganesha, touch his feet, ask for him to give them the wisdom to remove the obstacles from their life, and place a mala of orange carnations around him. They approach the mother goddess Durga, light incense, and ask for her to bless upon them the weapons of her protection. They approach the monkey God Hanuman, offer him his favorite sweets (usually Ladoo), and ask for him to bless them with his unfaltering devotion. They approach Vishnu, bow to his feet, and light a butter lamp praying for the preservation of their good health and prosperity. They approach Shiva, represented by a lingam, offer milk and throw flowers while chanting mantras that might invoke his blessing of finding the fortunate new beginnings within his destruction.

In this way, the family proceeds to each enthroned god, lowering their heads, humbling their beings, bowing their respect, and making offerings to those divine beings and virtues that they host closest to their hearts. When they leave the temple, the dare not turn their back on the Gods, but walk out of the temple backwards, reaching down with their hand to first touch the step, then their forehead, and then their heart -- in a symbolic gesture of holding themselves at the feet of their beloved.

Yet this family does not leave their humility in the temple. When the family returns home, they walk in the door and approach the 98-year old great grandmother. Each person -- father, mother, daughter, toddler -- before any chore or toy, approaches the elder and touches her foot and then their own head to symbolically swipe the sacred dust from her feet. Depending upon her mood, the great grandmother will either accept the gesture or, humbly, push it away. Either way, and even if only for the pangs of labor through which she birthed the existence of this family, she deserves this show of respect.

The daughter in this family is of the age to marry. Contrary to what you might expect, she does not cry every night wishing she had been born in a Western country where she might have had the opportunity of a "love marriage." Most likely, if you ask her, she will say that she respects, even more than the Indian tradition, the advice, experience, guidance, and ultimately, the choice of her mate by her parents. She questions her own lack of years and experience. She trusts their better judgment. She loves her parents and is loyal to trusting their love of her. She knows that they will make the decision that best befits her long-term and overall happiness. She shows her respect by submission and trust in their ultimate decision.

Okay. NOW let's get out the dictionary and define the word on the piece of paper that my student is still holding...

hu·mil·i·ty (noun) the quality or condition of being humble; modest opinion or estimate of one's own importance, rank, etc. a lack of false pride; freedom from pride and arrogance; An act of submission or courtesy.

So where do we take this as a culture and as a nation? Well, the truth is, while I'm great at isolating problems (aren't we all?), solutions are never as simple. And even if I had one, neither would I be allowed to provide something so easy. For just as with the definition, it would be stealing something to give away the answer. We owe it to ourselves to allow and embrace the struggle, for only through that process can we ultimately claim full ownership of the resulting revelation.

So what we did with our students was simply ask them to hold the word in their minds.

humility

To see where it would take them.

For I think as individuals we have to do this first, as it is only in our collection, that we become a nation.

Perhaps it sounds like a funny recipe: to just "hold" the word in our consciousness. But as I learned from my favorite childhood storybook, "Stone Soup" – sometimes the best way to start is to just put a rock in the pot and then add as you may; stewing and stirring and building upon your stone 'till the soup starts to smell good. Perhaps even forgetting, in the process, with what (now irrelevant) intention we may have started.

Funny, actually now that I think about it, is that it would seem that the first step in recognizing our humility would be the very act of recognizing our lack of it!

In any case. Humility is the rock in my pot and I now have two weeks trekking in the Himalayas to stew on it. So do be patient with me as this post feels like it's only at a simmer and still missing some key ingredients. Maybe I'll find them growing in the mountains? In the meantime, will you just help me by holding this stone for a minute?

This is the doorstep to the house where I live.



The house used to be owned by the King of Nepal.



This is the stray dog, Muchachito, that guards my doorstep. He was named by Spanish speaking tourists that adopted him from the streets and took care of him as a puppy. I feed him cream crackers every evening. He salivates every time he sees me.


This is a cow strolling past my door. There is a constant stream of tourists, worshipers, stray dogs, motorcycles and cows that pass by my door. The worshipers leave flowers and candles and do pujas (prayers) in front of the gate. The tourists take pictures.


This is Lolark Kund, the sacred pool outside my house. Lolark Kund literally means the 'tank of the trembling Sun,' "denoting the wavering image of the Sun God, Surya, in the water of the tank." Revelers ring bells in the temples to announce to the Gods their arrival. The bells ring from 4 in the morning till 12 at night. Often they chant mantras and beat drums as well.


This is an alley that I walk leading me to the ghats (stairs) that line the Ganga-ji.


This is Lord Ganesha taking his afternoon nap behind a locked door in the same alley. It's 104 degrees in Varanasi today. The gods, along with the locals, take afternoon naps.


This is a Goat feasting on flower malas left over from puja ceremonies along the Ganga. The goats wear sweater vests in the winter and sleep on the stairs in the summer.


This is a God (that I don't recognize) nestled in the trunk of a tree. Varanasi is claimed to be, "the oldest continually inhabitated city on Earth."


These are the stairs I climb down (near Tulsi Ghat) to get to the Ganga-ji.


These are two goats that I watched spar on the ghats while chatting with a small boy selling sweets.


These are bathers paying respect via puja (prayer) in the Ganga-ji river.


This is Lord Shiva's vehicle, the bull, looking toward the door of one of a thousand riverfront temples.


This is Agam-ji. I regularly stop in his shop, near Assi Ghat, to drink chai and hear stories while watching him work (in this case, on my new pendant). The pendant says, in Hindi script, "srijan" which means, "creativity" on one side, and "Kavita" which is my Indian name and means, "poem", on the other.


This is a painted bicycle rickshaw. They are all painted.


And this is Papu in his barber stand along the river. He studies English in his breaks between customers.

It takes me 6 minutes to walk from my house to Papu's barber shop.

One of my students recently quipped, "...arranged marriages give me faith in marriage."

And as quickly as I agreed with her, I wondered, "what a once-foreign idea with which I have so naturally nodded my head in agreement!"

It's one of the subjects on India of which I find to be the fullest of misconceptions and unfounded, ethnocentric judgments. But I never wag a finger at a new student of India when he or she comments, "Can you just imagine?! Not marrying for love?!"

Because I know my students will soon enough be living with Indian families, surrounded by Indian brothers, sisters, fathers and mothers. And that each of these family members will have his or her own story to tell which will illustrate that there's a lot more hidden variables in marriage math. I have enormous faith that my students, too, will not just learn, but witness that Love, in the East or the West and regardless of method, is still just as likely to find itself on the other side of the equal sign in the wedded equation.

My first Hindi teacher is 24 years old and was married last year. Aside from a 1x1 inch passport photo, he did not see the face of his bride until after his marriage to her. My second Hindi teacher has been happily married for 41 years. He didn't glimpse even a photo of his wife until hours after the wedding rituals were completed. What do these two men and generations have in common? A respected cultural tradition that accepts and pursues (with great faith) a committed and self-sacrificing investment in the lifetime partnership of parenthood.

I've visited and shared meals with both families. The young couple is no less caring, loving, and challenging-yet-functional, than any of my friends' young married relationships. The older couple has not a single less story of compassion, sacrifice, tolerance, perseverance or tender love than that of our own Western parents.

What my student was saying is, "if people here can have perfectly successful and loving (arranged) marriages with someone they don't even know, doesn't that mean that opportunity exists for ANY two persons?"

(Whether we actually have an advantage in being able to choose our partner is then what becomes debatable!)

Let me provide two interesting linguistic examples that illustrate some of the differences on East and West perceptions in regards to their definitions of two of life's most important social pillars; I'm going to start with "religion," but stay with me as I'll then return back to, "marriage."

Hinduism in India is actually not as much a religion as it is a culture and way of life. Even the name, "Hinduism" was originally only a term created to characterize the, "people of the Indus Valley." So essentially, it was a name invented by outsiders to categorize a group of people with a different "way of life" in order to differentiate it from their own.

If you you keep this definition in mind, it begins to make sense why there is no word in its scriptures or pressure within the "religion" to cultivate the spread of Hinduism. Nor can one, even of his or her own choice, really "convert" to being a Hindu. And finally, this would also perhaps provide logical reason for why there are no historical accounts of war or violence in the name of "saving" or "forcing" a group of non-Hindus to convert to practitioners of the "faith" of Hinduism.

For that would, plainly, be silly. It would be like Italians invading Montana and forcing them to make their pasta from scratch and drive scooters. Silly. And so if you translate religion to "culture" or, "way of life" then it makes perfect sense why on, more than one occasion, I have found different Indian persons challenging me with...

"What do you mean, you have no religion? Do you not have parents? Were you not born in a country?"

Because despite my soft claims that, "I chose to stop being, practicing and calling myself a Christian when I was 21," this sentence is no more rational to an Indian than me saying, "I stopped being an American when I was 21."

Let me interject my disclaimer now that this understanding is only my own; it's a subtle and simple (and perhaps opinionated) observation that I've only hypothesized from the confused pauses before, after, and between sentences.

But what I was getting back to was the topic of marriage, and the link between the above example and the next, is only the similar confused pause at the end of the sentence…

"What do you mean you're not sure you believe in marriage?"

For just as religion equates to culture. The term "marriage" is easily transferable with the words, "life" and "family." And to challenge the existence or desire of marriage is quite equivalent to denying the existence of life or desire for love.

Now I can hear someone in the audience stirring in their seat and raising their hand with the following question: "But what about dowries (a type of early inheritance or investment paid to the groom's family by the brides), and the fact that not only is the marriage arranged, but that the bride is little more than sold, for a price, to the most appropriate bidder?"

Well. I certainly do not doubt the likely correlation between the social construct of dowries and the social norm of preferential sex selection and even female feticide. But as is often the case when I investigate a stereotype or preconceived idea and begin to explore the more intimate details of the (Indian) relationships near me, I hear quite interesting stories.

Like that of my best friend here in India who, even as a Brahmin (the highest caste and often demanding of the highest dowry), accepted only a single symbolic rupee (equivalent to about 2 US cents) in dowry for his arranged marriage to his wife. And of his and his wife's relationship, I can say that I would truly be tried to find a more accepting, self-sacrificing, committed and loving relationship than theirs on any continent. (Would you know by witnessing the tenderness in the above photo that there's a 3-year old screaming for a toy in one corner and a 1-year old trying to eat Vaseline in the other?)

I'm not out to prove anything. I only want it down for the record that, from my experiences here in India, I have gathered absolutely NO evidence that would lead me to believe that a "love marriage" has any greater chances for "success" (which would take an essay of its own to define) than that of an arranged marriage. And if you have any doubt or questions, I challenge you to find any Indian couple who's been married for a few dozen years, and sit down and have chai with them and hear out their stories; of anxiety, of fear, of desire, of bliss, of routine, of duties, of immaturity, of overwhelm, of challenges, of loss, of self-sacrifice, of commitment, of pride, of trust, and of the continuum and construction of love. And I challenge you to see if that story is really any different from those of the elders of the country where you were born. And if you come to any interesting conclusions, I'd like to have tea with you too.

Sorry friends for my absence; between my sicknesses (minor) and those of my students, I've hardly found a free moment. I did just upload some photos from a quick walk around town yesterday. Take a stroll with me. The words are right around the corner.

(I've been in a silent retreat and had no idea as to what events have taken place in Tibet this week. I just found out and have yet to research it, but you can click on the picture above to learn more and help support the Dalai Lama in standing up for Tibet - a country and people who have my heart. For those interested, here's another list of ways to help and protect the Tibetans in Lhasa. The following post was written in retreat and has no relation to the current events.)

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"Well. You know what Buddhists would say? You must have some karmic connection that keeps bringing you back..." – the woman checking me into the Roots Institute of Wisdom Buddhist Retreat Center, Bodhgaya (Bihar), India

And even I have to admit that finding myself again in a Buddhist learning and meditation center for the 7th time in 7 years, does cross the line of coincidence. Even if I tried to deny it, my "connection" still manages to leak out in a "glow" that others have told they observe of me (when I'm in retreat), and the unexplainable tears in which my eyes well each time I encounter another special lama, geshe or monk who steals my heart with his laugh and mirror of love.

Buddhism certainly is, as I was taught, a graduated path. Like my height inching up the notches on the wall in grade school, it is hard to recognize how much I've grown since my first class. Today, I sit in meditation and wonder, "Wait? When did it stop being painful to sit? When did I stop stealing restless sneak peeks at my watch? When did my legs stop falling asleep? When did I stop "treating" myself to daydreams and fantasies? When did I stop hurling mental obscenities at the person whose voice is leading the analytical meditation? And since when am I able to sit for forty minutes without moving, on mental task, and at peace?"

I remember sharing a meditation hall with people like me and hating them, "You think you're enlightened, don't you? Well. I hate you and your perfect posture. And I might spend my next meditation fantasizing about hitting you with my meditation cushion." (Okay. I know that's a harsh and embarrassing line of thought. But try "meditating" for 11 hours a day, and see what pops into your head on the 6th day.)

In any case, if I hadn't already given it away, not whisky or affairs or high-speed sports, but ANGER is my poison. Don't worry. No one that "knows me", would know it. (Well, maybe a special few.) Because as an expert suppressor of unkind emotions, I usually just bottle my poison and then grind my teeth through the night, bite at my cuticles, and connive especially smart ways to "bite" in sneaky emails. Are you getting afraid? So am I.

And as my last teacher correctly told me in response to my question, "Ah yes dear. So you're beginning to worry that you're a terrible human being who acts only under the influence of her afflictions and delusions? Then the dharma (teachings of Buddha) is finally sinking into you! (And the denial out.) They say it takes at least three teachings before you hear it for the first time. So welcome! And don't worry. We can't begin to fix our flaws unless we recognize them. The only teacher more powerful than Buddha himself, is your suffering and struggle."

That's some sneaky reassurance.

Anyway, a "simultaneously-up-and-down" graduated path, I'd like to correct it for the record. For it seems that for every additional minute I am able to sit in mindful concentration and awareness, I am rewarded with the realization of the plummeting immaturity and reckless state of my mind. Meditation IS exhausting.

And yet.

I am sleeping two hours less each night. I wake up remembering each of my dreams in vivid detail. My breath is deepening. My awareness heightening. My appreciation strengthening. So meditation is also walking-down-the-UP-escalator and, to the observer, walking-in-place. If you wanted circles and conundrums, look no farther than Buddhism. Have you ever noticed the soft and sneaky smirk on Buddha's lips? If I might borrow the quote of a dear friend and apply it the prophet: "He's not laughing at you. You're just not laughing with him."

Anyway. I escaped the retreat center for only a minute in the name of business. So I have to get back to it. If my chatty mood (I've been in silence for six days) confused the message, do let it be clear that I love Buddha. His teachings, of all the religions I've studied, have had the most profound impact on my relationship to the world and the human beings that inhabit it. If you're feeling curious, duped by, or clueless to, the world as you know it, and have a sneaking suspicion of a much bigger mystery that's tooling you around like a kitten a yarn ball, then I can't more highly recommend a course in Buddhism as the most pragmatic and experiential path to self-discovery that I've yet encountered.

And as I've been musing through the day, I don't think I've ever met a Buddhist I didn't highly respect and love. You special Buddhists in my life that are reading this: that means you. Yes. YOU.

If you'd like some material, this is what I've been read- (and re-reading) this week from two of my favorite human beings, both of whom I've had the great karma to bow my thanks to in person:

ANGER: Wisdom for Cooling the Flames - Thick Nhat Hanh


Healing Anger: The Power of Patience from a Buddhist Perspective by H. H. The Dalai Lama


Old Path White Clouds – Walking in the Footsteps of Buddha – Thick Nhat Hanh


The Art of Happiness – by H.H. The Dalai Lama


The Stone Boy – Thich Nhat Hanh


Back to my (business, and) retreating.

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*sol bows her "namaste" and gratitude to World Nomads Travel Insurance, ThinkHost and Merc for their ever-supporting roles in the realization of her dream.

India is the home of almost 1/6th of the world population; 1.13 billion people and around 80% of this population lives in rural areas.

Last weekend I spent a long weekend in a small, rural village on the outskirts of Varanasi of which I've visited and fostered some lovely friendships over the course of the last six months. Our students each lived with different families in the village and we gave them a set of questions (constituting a sort of, "anthropological survey"). We, as well, lived with one of the families and spent a day gathering answers to the same survey questions. The following are excerpts from the information gathered...

(I start off by addressing my questions to our 14-year daughter of the primary family occupying the house.)

Me: So this is the only Brahmin (highest caste) family in the village?

Daughter: Brahmin? What is this? I don't know.

Me: You know, the caste system?

Daughter: No. I don't know what that is.

Me: Do you know where the women of the village give birth?

Daughter: Now? Now, babies are born in the hospital. Before they were born in the house. But now, in the hospital.

Me: When do you worship and or make puja (prayer)?

Daughter: Sometimes we go to the ashram. And we make puja also in the house. The whole family participates. But mostly my grandfather does it. Which god we pray to depends on the day of the week and/or the festival.

Me: Do the kids in the village go to school?

Daughter: Yes. All the kids in the village go to school from 8am - 3pm, Monday through Saturday. I go to a special school because the teacher at the village school is very lazy - always sleeping. Many girls here study to class 8, and then they usually make marriage.

Me: Do you know who is the prime minister of India?

Daughter: Oh... I can't remember his name.

Me: Do you know who is the president of the United States?

Daughter: Ummm. One of my friends is telling jokes about someone called, George Bush. And there was a big bomb blast in America in 2001, no? One of my friends is also calling me, Bin Laden. (She is particularly famous in the village for being a fireball with a temper who is ever eager to instigate brawls and fighting with, even, village boys.)

Me: Can you help me draw out your family tree?

(We draw out a tree of the 43 persons she knows to be in her family. After finishing, we take a chai break and move downstairs, where her uncle is sitting. I turn my next questions to him...)

Me: She told me that she doesn't know what, "Brahmin" or the "caste system" is...

(The uncle calls his niece into the room and says,)

Uncle: What "janti" do you belong to?

Daughter: Pandey.

Uncle: Pandey is your (last) name. You are Brahmin, na?

Daughter: (She bobs her head in hesitant agreement.)

Uncle (addressing me): Did you know her grandfather (who lives here) was a freedom fighter for the movement with Gandhi?

Me: Really? The man whose feet I touched in the fields? That's amazing.

Me: So here's the family tree she and I drew together...

Uncle: (He looks at it for a minute and then asks me for a piece of paper. He then draws out the complete family tree of 64 persons.)

(The uncle leaves and the father of the house returns from working in the fields. His English is limited so I enlist the help of his 20-year old nephew to help me with the rest of the questions...)

Me: So what is your family business/trade?

Father & Nephew: Having land. Other families have shops and sell buffalo milk. We have land.

Me: And in addition to your family, you employ people to work on your fields? How much do you pay them?

House Father & Nephew: Those that work in our fields are paid in rupees, rice paddies (or land), food and jaggery. How many rupees? About 80 rupees per day. The government pays its field workers a rate of 110 rupees per day. But we also provide, each year, a plot of land to each worker. Then, they get 5 kilos of food from the fields they work on each day. And spices and essentials, like jaggery (sugar cane sweetener). We also make meals for them every day. What do we serve them? You know, because you eat the same thing. We all eat the same food. The same meals you are eating here for breakfast, lunch and dinner, are the same that they eat. Are they happy? Yes. They are happy because they have their own land and can do what they want with it; grow what they want on it.

Me: What about the caste system? How does it work here?

Nephew: If you're in another caste, there is no thinking that another can't come into your house or anything. We are always wanting and looking forward to nice things happening to all people. Many times I have gone to the "untouchable" part of the village and helped students to do these interviews there. I go into their houses too and we talk.

Me: Who is in charge of the village?

House Father & Nephew: The government leaders are in charge. But ours is a bad drunkard. He is a milker - because in our village, this is an important caste. He is still here, but he only likes to drink and lay around. He uses all the money that the government gives to the village for bad things. So now two others of the village have taken over managing the village. My uncle is one of them.

Me: And what happens when there are conflicts in the village?

House Father & Nephew: If there is a problem in the village, there is a panchayat (a committee of five elders chosen for their life experience and wisdom, to proceed over community disputes). The problem is taken to the panchayat to help. People can also choose their panchayat, if they want. If both people are not happy with the resolution of the panchayat, then they will go to the police.

Me: What happens in cases where people steal, or in the case of a woman who is raped?

Nephew: It's never happened in my village that I've seen.

House Father: There is so much work for the women in the village. Hard work. They work till 12 at night; with the baby, in the fields, cleaning, cooking...

Me: And the men work hard too?

House Father: Yes. But the women work harder.

Me: Is this fair?

House Father & Nephew: No.

Me: What is the water system here?

Nephew: Rain, when there is rain. But we haven't had rain for four years. When is the rain season? July. No. September. Hum. I don't remember, it's been so long since we've had a rain season. The village had to make wells. The government didn't make them, but my uncle, he had a contact with someone who makes wells for the government and so this family put two wells in: one inside our house for our family, and one outside the house for the village to use. These wells are 350-420 feet deep. This is very deep, and each year we have to go deeper. The government made a water tank two years ago. Six months ago, it started working. It costs 18 rupees per month to use, but it also costs 800 rupees for the connection. That well comes from the earth, 345 to 400 ft. There are maybe 10-12 wells in the village, but only six of them still work.

Me: Does the village have electricity?

House Father & Nephew: Yes. We have electricity. When? From about 11pm to 5pm. But we don't really know the times because it changes every day. For example, since you are coming, we haven't had light. The electricity is most important because we need it to pump the water in the fields. 75% of the village has electricity. Normally it costs 70- 80 rupees per month, but most people are using the lines without paying for it by just taking it.

Me: What forms of fuel do you use here?

House Father & Nephew: We use dung from the animals for cooking. And some wood. One time, each year, we go up to the mountain and take wood from the forest. We take 2-3 bushels and use 1-2 small pieces per day. Are we running out? No. We only go a few times a year. There is so much wood. And we use diesel for the tractors.

Me: What kinds of electronics do you use here?

House Father & Nephew: We have TV's. But ours is in the closet. There used to be only two or three TVs in the village, but now everyone has one. Not everyone uses them; sometimes we use to watch cricket matches, political news and serial pictures which the government plays for free on weekends. We use FM (radio) too - to hear the news. We have three cell towers here, and 30% of people in the village have cell phones. CD players too. Chinese players are so cheap on the black-market in Varanasi.


Me: What is the possession that you treasure most in the house?

House Father & Nephew: Our family.

Me: Where does the food that you cook the meals with come from?

House Father & Nephew: Mostly from the fields. Sometimes we get some vegetables from the market (in surrounding villages). Right now we grow (and are eating) carrots, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, lentils, green peas, chick peas, zucchini, garlic, onion, potatoes, mustard seed (and oil), cabbage, cauliflower, spinach, ginger, bitter gourd, different leafy vegetables, sugar cane (and jaggery), and chili peppers. Soon we will begin to plant and harvest our summer foods: watermelon, cucumber, mangos, pumpkin, and rice when the rain season comes. Normally, we sell our surplus of these things in the city, but because we haven't had a rain season for four years, we have just enough food for our own family.

Me: And the animals, what is your relationship to them?

Newphew: Do you know the Hindi word for animal? It is, "janvar." This word means, "he who will kill himself for you." Our animals take care of us. When my aunt died, we left our house empty (to attend to her death rites), and our dog watched over the house. We only have dogs and water buffalo here. We are Brahmin. So we do not eat any meat. If a Brahmin eats meat, another will say, "Don't sit on my bed. Sit over there."

Me: In the case of medical emergencies, what happens?

House Father & Nephew: Here, there are some doctors, but they are not very learned. For fevers and critical cases, people go to the hospital in the city. But it's hard to get there; some people die on the way.

Me: Do you have any preventative health treatments, natural medicines?

Nephew: Yes. We pick natural medicines from the mountains. We use trees, grasses... I don't know. My grandfather makes all the ayurveda medicine for our family. He still does it. What happens when he dies? It is so bad for the family. Because no one knows how to make the medicines. No one has the time to learn these things. But he will teach it, if anyone wants to learn.

Me: So when and for what do you go to the city?

House Father & Nephew: For some weddings, government work and to buy electronics. But, everything in the city - milk, vegetables, chick peas, rice, spices - comes from the villages.

Me: Interesting. So really, if there were a major disaster in the world that cut you off...

House Father & Nephew: We'd be fine.

Me: What are the things your family fears most?

House Father & Nephew: Separation of family.

Me: You mean physical separation? Like people moving away, to the city or other countries?

House Father & Nephew: No. I mean, if we don't have nice relations with each other.

Me: Is there anything else your family is afraid of?

House Father & Nephew: Yes. Also drought and terrorists. Naxilites walked by our village once, two or three years ago. They just walked by. But there is a fear that they will come again and begin to kidnap persons.

Nephew: My uncle wants to know what you think of our village?

Me: I think it all works very well together. The community and family are such a strong and functional foundation to the village. And I think this emphasis is so important. I also see that while there are less material things here, there seems to be more peace and general happiness. Tell him that I think his village is beautiful.





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*sol bows her "namaste" and gratitude to World Nomads Travel Insurance, ThinkHost and Merc for their ever-supporting roles in the realization of her dream.